While Budapest has many outstanding attributes in common with its sister European capitals–central river, old church, prestigious museum, preserved castle/palace, pretty legislative building–it has one advantage over all of them: it is beautiful at night. Its landmark buildings and bridges are illuminated in a flattering way that makes them even more attractive than under sunlight. Credit to their city planners and architects for adding this lovely dimension to the city’s appearance.
Parliament Building
Chain Bridge
Vörösmarty Square
The other thing that has impressed me about the city is the quality of its landscaping, in particular, the flowers. Even in the middle of a hot month of August, there were cheerful and colorful varieties in bloom.
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I am staying on the “Buda” side of the river, which appears to be quieter and less commercially-developed than the “Pest” side. The Buda side has hills on which reside some interesting places to climb up to. For instance, I made the short hike up Gellért Hill to see the city’s Citadel. While the Citadel itself is not much to see, there is a beautiful park behind it and nice views of the city. The hill itself has an interesting back-story; it was named after St. Gellért who was rolled down the hill in a barrel by pagan leaders who rejected his efforts at conversion.
Stairway to the Citadel, with statue of St. Gellért
Park behind the Citadel
Also on the Buda side are the Buda castle and Fisherman’s Bastion, each more notable for their views of the city below than for anything you can actually do there. Fisherman’s Bastion is the site of Matthias Church, which has a distinct and impressive patterned-tile roof.
View from Buda Castle
St. Matthias Church at Fisherman’s Bastion
I did a little shopping (really more wandering) at the Great Market Hall. Having experienced the awesome markets in London, Paris, and Budapest, I find them highly superior to supermarkets. Even Whole Foods and Central Market–while nice substitutes–do not fully live up to the level of quality, variety, and fun.
Great Market Hall
Budapest has the good fortune of having thermal medicinal springs flowing from Gellért Hill. Many bath houses have been built in which to take advantage of their relaxing and therapeutic qualities. I visited the Gellért Baths, which has several pools fed by the nearby springs, plus a couple of swimming pools and dry and steam saunas. It was a great way to spend a cool and rainy morning.
Gellért Hotel and Baths
On my last day in town I took an Alternative Budapest Tour, which focuses on the 7th district–the area currently evolving from its past as a Jewish ghetto during German occupation to its present of street art and abandoned buildings converted to design studios and hip ruin pubs. It was the first time I had been to that part of the city and the first time I felt a connection to Budapest and understood a little about local lifestyle. Next time I’m in town, this is where I’ll look to stay.
Mural brightening a small park in Budapest’s 7th district
Szimpla Kert ruin pub
While the Brazilian Real is the most beautiful national currency I have seen so far on this trip, the Hungarian Forint easily takes the prize for most intimidating facial hair. I would not mess with any of these dudes, nor would I attempt to eat a bagel with cream cheese if I had any of their mustaches.
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